2012 Alternator replacement – toyota sienna forum – siennachat.com escoliosis dorsolumbar derecha

I’m posting this just to let people know it is possible to change out the alternator on a 3rd generation Sienna without cracking into the AC system with the very generalized steps I took to do so and to help you identify the main problem you are likely to run into. This is absolutely not a detailed step-by-step guide; however, I won’t discourage someone who has never changed an alternator from using this as an aid (everyone has to learn somehow and everyone had a first). With all that said, here’s some info, complete with pictures that have hi-tech, cell phone edited, finger added graphics.

Background: My alternator crapped out on me in my in-laws’ driveway several estenosis lumbar sintomas hundred miles away from home. I received no warning lights and no solid indication that something was amiss with the charging system leading up to the event. Sadly, I have found this to usually be the case with any alternator or battery issue I’ve ever had. I wasn’t willing to limp home on a prayer that the battery would stay charged or would not boil from being overcharged by a bad voltage regulator. The van is a new to me 2012 Sienna Limited with a little over 96,000 miles.

Alternator choices: Given my situation, away from home, I could not wait for a part to be shipped. Regardless, I would not have gone that route because I keep vehicles for so long that it is not unusual for me to have to replace an alternator more than once, so being able to easily and quickly take back a previously replaced alternator to swap it for another, free-of-charge, is a very big plus in my book. For those reasons, I chose one of the national auto parts stores. The cost was $200 for a remanufactured, after getting my core charge back. I could have gotten it as much as $80 cheaper if I went with the online method. From what I could see, I don’t think you can even get a new alternator from any source other than perhaps Toyota (maybe there was just a rush on them lately or something, but no one was showing any new ones available).

Tools required: My selection of tools was so limited I had very little faith preparacion para radiografia de columna lumbosacra bioimagen I would be able to remove the alternator. As it turned out, I was able to do so without any specialty items (ie no universal joint que es escoliosis dorsal socket attachments, etc). At an absolute minimum, you’ll need a regular metric socket wrench set with an assortment of extension lengths and an allen wrench (approx 6mm I think, just fairly thick).

Miscellaneous items: Antifreeze. I would suggest as well: (a) terminal protection for the battery posts, (b) electric grease for the various connectors you’ll be unplugging and plugging back, (c) a mirror tool for spotting a hidden bolt, and (d) either a magnet tool or a claw tool in case, like me, you drop the bolt from the support bracket which when being chased by a set of chubby fingers retreats to a location that requires removal of the alternator to retrieve.

Overview: This method will not require messing with the AC system at all, but a lot of stuff comes off to make it accessible. The top bracket holding the radiator, the fan and fan shroud, hood latch mechanism and mounting bracket, and the top radiator hose have to come off to permit sufficient access to pull the alternator out. This will allow the radiator to lean forward several inches creating more than enough room to pull the alternator out. The alternator has a bracket on the back, against the engine block which has two bolts and a wire harness clip attached to it. This will be what will cause the curse words to fly and unless you want to be stuck with the mess this forum member gracefully danced through, you better take your time and keep your frustration levels in check. The entire job took me about 6 hours, but half of the time was just trying to find tools and a large part of the remainder was taking my time not to, god forbid, “soil” my in-laws’ car port. I would think in the proper setting with the proper tool supply, you would be looking at a 3 hour job if you were careful, less if you just go to town and the consequences be damn.

First, if you are unaware, when removing / loosening the serpentine belt the tensioner pulley has a nifty little aid to lock it in the loose position escoliosis lumbar de convexidad derecha. Attempting to turn the pulley’s 14mm bolt counterclockwise (turning to left as if to loosen a bolt), pushes the pulley upwards. This will raise it past a little hole into which you insert an allen wrench and leave it while you let the pulley ease back to down against the allen wrench leaving the tensioner pulley permanently in an un-tensioned state. I believe it was supposedly a 6mm allen wrench, but it just needs to be a chunky one or anything hardened and of the correct diameter. That is about all the props I’ll give the Toyota engineers on this endeavor. As an aside, take a pic or draw a diagram of where all the belt twists, turns, loops, and wraps. It took me way too long to get the route escoliosis izquierda figured back out.

Added based on other forum members’ reported experiences: I haven’t looked at my engine to confirm this paragraph, but apparently unbolting the oil dipstick tube so it can be moved out of the way and unbolting the heat shield on the exhaust manifold makes a big difference in gaining access to the hidden bolt. I’m assuming the heat shield would be unbolted and removed, but I’m not positive and for that matter I think it’ll be pretty evident once you get into it whether it can / needs to be removed or just unbolted to allow movement.

I’m not sure which order the pictures will attach and I edited them on my phone with my finger, so I didn’t sequentially label the pictures in the first place contractura lumbar izquierda. That said, the first picture I’ll talk about is marked “ D”. This is essentially the position of the alternator on the engine with the two main 14mm bolts marked #4 for the upper bolt and #5 for the lower bolt. These are fairly easy to access, #5 from below and #4 from above.

Standing in front of the van, picture “ C” is essentially what you can see. The #4 bolt is readily accessible and the various connectors (#6, #7, #8) are easy to access. You can actually see through a small gap the #1 bolt which is the first bracket bolt. It is fairly accessible and not too bad to remove. Once you have removed all the bolts and connections I’ve referred to thus far, you will be able to dislodge the alternator from the engine (mine took some extra wiggling and prying). The attachment point where the #4 bolt runs through seems to have been my sticking point. Dislodge the alternator, DO NOT REMOVE the alternator. That is the key.

At this point, the alternator can be angled slightly, moving the part facing the front of the van towards the passenger wheel well a little. Picture “ F” shows you the full bracket to which we are trying to gain access. This picture is at an angle, so don’t think #3 is actually accessible. Twisting the alternator a little should grant you enough access to bolt #2 to get your socket on it and remove the bolt. Once you get it out, the alternator comes completely out, leaving the bracket behind with the wiring harness attached at #3. Make sure the bracket is free from the alternator before trying to muscle the alternator out. Squeezing the alternator past the wiring harness and radiator dolor lumbar derecho causas hose takes a little patience, but it will work past it.

Picture “ E” shows you why #3 is not accessible at all. Picture “ B” shows the wire harness #9 that we are trying not to rip out, the clip #3, and where bolt #1 attaches to the engine block. Picture “ A” just shows you a wider view and proof that my AC hoses are left untouched.

I’m not positive the #3 clip was secured on my bracket. I had the #2 bolt out and had dropped the darn thing, but when I pulled the alternator out, the bracket was still stuck to the alternator. However, the #3 clip was attached to the #9 wire, so either the clip popped out while I was removing the alternator or it was never on there in the first place. I never saw the #9 wire move while I was trying to get the alternator out, so I’m kind of thinking the #3 clip wasn’t in place.

I saw a video of a guy talking about not attaching the #9 wire back using the #3 clip. That wire looks like it is prepared to take escoliosis sintomas some serious heat, it looked like it had taken serious heat, and I don’t think it needs any more heat than necessary. I reattached that sucker. I got bolt #2 mostly on before reinstalling the alternator and used a long screw driver to push the #3 clip back into the #3 hole before fully securing the #2 bolt. Do as you wish. If your clip remained attached to the bracket, it should not be too bad to just bolt everything back up.

I wish anyone luck attempting this job. It certainly seemed far worse than it turned out to be, at least for me. Frankly, I found a bolt on my 2001 Nissan Maxima’s alternator to be far less accessible and causing that job to be more of a pain than the Sienna even though I had to remove far less junk on the Maxima to get the alternator in and out.

1. The Battery – Less than one month, 1k miles later, and of course while once again far away from home, I had hernia discal lumbar ejercicios prohibidos to replace my battery. Historically, I think I’ve just about always ended up replacing my battery when my alternator dies. So, if your battery is a bit aged when the alternator goes, be prepared to replace it.

… you mentioned you had no early symtpoms …I’ll clarify a bit for you. I was careful in the word choice for a reason. I said no warning lights, which was absolutely true. I’ve never had a blasted battery warning light come on unless my battery was dead and the engine wouldn’t start, at which time I’ve always got a nice long string of expletives ready to fly about that stupid, useless light.

The other part was "no obvious" signs. This is a where the benefit of hindsight MIGHT have made a difference, but again, historically I’m not sure it would have. With the Sienna Limited, the rear seats have the power system to retract them. I had noticed over the past couple of months that it seemed a bit less peppy when using motors, but nothing particularly alarming b/c the engine was always off and I’m fairly sure those motors pull a good amount of current so it could have just been attributed to a battery getting old. That’s really about the only sign I had.

As for you testing yours, you can dolor lumbar causas emocionales give it a try, but again, I’ve had very little luck with that process. I had a Mitsubishi Montero Sport that leaked oil something awful and it just so happened to be the vehicle I traded in for this van. Apparently baking old oil on alternators is not healthy for them. The first time the alternator bit the dust, it was out of the blue. The second time, I noticed the engine sounded like it was laboring to crank, the lights seemed dimmer than they should be, and the dash gauges suddenly started going haywire. By the third alternator, I knew the symptoms so I asked them to check it when things seemed off. They found nothing wrong. A month later I asked again estenosis lumbar tratamiento, and again they said nothing was wrong. A week after that, testing again and again, nothing. Then it died. I have no idea why it wouldn’t show as going bad, but until it died, it wouldn’t read as having a problem. The third alternator had a sticker on it about needing to fix oil leaks to prolong the alternator’s life. I guess they finally figured out why all the Montero Sport’s alternators were being replaced multiple times. Since 2010, I’ve never seen an early 2000’s model that wasn’t billowing smoke.

I think we were able to catch the alternator on the Nissan Maxima, but it was similar to the Mitsubishi (labored cranking, windows seemed have less pep going up and down, lights where dim, etc). It’s on its second alternator that I’ve installed and this last time we knew from the signs it was headed down that road again. It tested fine more than once, but finally a test came back inconclusive. They said they could only truly test it with it removed and I knew it was going to crap out on us, so pulled it. Sure enough it failed and preparacion para radiografia de columna lumbosacra I got my free replacement.

Absent actual failure, I’m just not sure you’ll ever preemptively catch one of the darn things. I’m considering adding USB plugs to mine and I’ve seen a socket that includes a digital voltage reading of what it’s receiving from the battery. I’m kind of thinking that might be a really good for sniffing out battery and alternator issues. I know the motorcycle guys love those readers, but I’m not sure I would ever look at the numbers frequently enough to actually catch a failure in progress as opposed to looking at the number after the fact and muttering "no sh*t" when I see it showing a low voltage.